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Mystery Quilt 2008

The finished size of "Mystery Quilt 2008" is 60 inches square.

Fabric Requirements:

Fabric #1: 3yds Dominant Fabric. Equal in Value to Fab#2. Contrasts Fab#3

Fabric #2: 1 yd Equal in Value to Fab#1. Contrasts Fab#3

Fabric# 3: 1.5 yds Background to Block features. Contrasts Fab#2 & #3

Fabric #4: ½ yd Highlight or Zinger Fabric

Fabric #5: Fat eighth Complimenting to group. Can be of equal value to #1 & #2

Fab1 Fab2 Fab3 Fab4 Fab5

You must really LOVE the fabric you choose for your Fabric 1 - this is the dominant color of the quilt and you really do see a lot of it. Fabric 3 is the background fabric for block features. It is possible to use a directional fabric for the Fabric 4 position but I personally would only use something as subtle as the one shown above in the 2nd selection above. I would warn against choosing strong directional or large patterned fabrics in the rest of this quilt which would be unsuitable for this mystery.

For the purpose of my instructions and illustrations I will be describing the fabrics as Fab1, Fab2, Fab3, etc... I suggest that you print out the cutting directions and paste a small sample of your fabrics alongside each section to eliminate confusion and refer to this record.

The instructions for this mystery include all border and binding fabric requirements. All fabrics are standard 42 to 44 inch wide and are 100% cottons. While calculating requirements I have assumed that the usable portion of the fabric width is only 40 inches, in some instances you will be able to cut an extra patch from a strip - strips are cut from selvage to selvage. My fabric requirements below allow a "small" margin for error - if you already have a piece of fabric that you would like to use in this quilt then add up the strips and inches per color required to see if you are able to utilise your existing stash.

I will be using my preferred method of making "half square triangles" which requires fabric to be cut at 3" square as opposed to cutting squares at 2 ⁷/₈" - I have found that elements such as machine tension, stitch length, fabric weave/weight, etc can often distort the end result. For accuracy of points I believe it far better to trim back to the 2 ½" unfinished units - I know it's only a smidge and can be a pain but I have found that it does make a big difference in my quilts.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

Fabric #1 3yds Total	No. of Strips	Strip Width in Inches	Unit Size	No. of Units
Fab. #1	4	2½"	2½" x 2½"	68
Fab. #1	7	2½"	Leave as Strips
Fab. #1	6	2½"	Binding Strips
Fab. #1	6	3"	3" x 3"	76
Fab. #1	2	3½"	3½" x 3½"	18
Fab. #1	2	4½"	4½" x 10½"	8
Fab. #1	8	3"	Leave as strips
Fabric #2 1yd Total	No. of Strips	Strip Width in Inches	Unit Size	No. of Units
Fab. #2	1	2½"	2½" x 2½"	12
Fab. #2	4	3"	3" x 3"	50
Fab. #2	4	4½"	4½" x 2½""	52
Fabric #3 1.5 yds Total	No. of Strips	Strip Width in Inches	Unit Size	No. of Units
Fab. #3	8	2½"	2½" x 2½"	116
Fab. #3	3	2½"	Leave as strips
Fab#3	4	3"	3" x 3"	42
Fab#3	2	3½"	3½" x 3½"	18
Fabric #4 .5 yd Total	No. of Strips	Strip Width in Inches	Unit Size	No. of Units
Fab. #4	4	2½"	Leave as strips
Fabric #5 Fat Eight	No. of Strips	Strip Width in Inches	Unit Size	No. of Units
Fab. #5	Fat Eighth		2½" x 2½"	13

CAQC Mystery 2008 Stage 2: IMAGES BELOW

(Section 1.1) Take (24) 3" (Fab1) squares and (24 ) 3" (Fab2) squares and construct Half Square Triangle units using the diagram as your guide

On the back of your (Fab2) 3" squares draw a diagonal line with a pencil. Place one (Fab 2) square on top of one Blue (Fab1) square (right sides together). Stitch ¼" either side of drawn line - cut on line and press open by pressing the seam behind the (Fab1) fabric. Trim to 2½" half square triangles.

You need 48 of these finished units. Minimum of 16 for quilt night.

(Section 1.2) Take (26) 3" (Fab3) squares and

(26) 3" (Fab2) squares and construct Half Square Triangle units using the diagram as your guide.Trim to 2½" half square triangles. You need 52 of these finished units.

Minimum of 8 for quilt night.

(Section 1.3)Use (3) 2½" (Fab1) strips and (3) 2½" (Fab3) strips. Sew together one (Fab1) strip and one (Fab3) strip as shown. Press seam behind the (Fab1) fabric. Cross cut these sewn strips into 2½" units.You need 40 of these finished units. Minimum of 20 for quilt night.

(Section 1.4) Use (4 ) 2½" (Fab4) strips and (4) 2½" (Fab1) strips. Sew together one (Fab4) strip and one (Fab1) strip as shown. Press seam behind the (Fab4) fabric. Cross cut these sewn strips into 2½" units. You need 52 of these finished units. Minimum of 8 for quilt night.

Section 2.1) Take (16) 3" (Fab3) squares and (16) 3" (Fab1) squares and construct Half Square Triangle units using the diagram as your guide.Trim to 2½" half square triangles.

You need 32 of these finished units. .Minimum of 16 for quilt night.

(Section 2.2) Take 16 previously completed (Fab1) and (Fab2) 2½" half square triangles (from 1.1) and 32 completed (Fab1) and (Fab3) 2½" half square triangles (from 2.1) and 16 precut 2½" (Fab1) squares. Using the above fabrics make up the follow unit following the arrows for pressing instructions. You need 16 of these finished units. . Minimum of 8 for quilt night.

(Section 2.3) Take (18) 3½" (Fab3) squares and (18) 3½" (Fab1) squares and construct Half Square Triangle units using the diagram as your guide.

2.3.bmp

!!!!!Trim to 3" half square triangles.!!!

You need 36 of these finished units. Minimum of 20 for quilt night.

(Section 3.1) Use 36 (Fab1) 3" squares and the (36) 3" half square triangle units just completed (2.3).

You will have 72 of these finished units. Minimum of 20 for quilt night. Ten of each direction. Keep them in separate piles according to the direction of the half square blue section. Trim to 2½" unfinished using your 45 degree markings on your ruler to keep aligned and square.

3.1.bmp

(Section 3.2)

Use 16 left slant and 16 right slant of the above Triple Triangle units and (16) x 2½" (Fab1) squares and 16 (Fab1) and (Fab2) half square triangles fm 1.1). Make up 16 of the units shown in the diagram.

Minimum of 4 for quilt night.

(Section 3.3) Take 52 - 4½" x 2½" (Fab2) rectangles and 52 x 2½" (Fab3) squares.

Draw a line on the back of your 52 (Fab 3) squares.

Divide the 52 (Fab2) rectangles into two piles of 26. It is VERY important to take care with this next step.

Place a 2½" square on the Left hand end of the first 26 rectangles and sew across the corner as indicated in the first diagram. Trim and iron back behind the (Fab3) Minimum of 4 for quilt night.

Place a 2½" square on the Right hand end of the second 26 rectangles and sew across the corner as indicated in the second diagram. Trim and iron back behind the (Fab3)

Minimum of 4 for quilt night.

3.31.bmp 3.32.bmp

(Section 3.4) Take your 52 previously made (Fab2) and (Fab3) 2½" half square triangle units and a further (52) 2½" (Fab3) squares.

Divide into two piles then:

Join a 2½" (Fab3) to the side of the 26 Fab2/Fab3 half square triangle units as shown. Minimum of 4 for quilt night.

Join a 2½" (Fab3) to the side of the 26 Fab2/Fab3 half square triangle units as shown. Minimum of 4 for quilt night.

3.4.GIF

(Section 3.5)

You need to make 26 diagram (1)'s (Minimum of 4 for quilt night.)

and

26 diagram (2)'s (Minimum of 4 for quilt night.) to finish this section.

3.5.GIF

Ningaloo Blooming Stage Four: Well now it's time to reveal two of the blocks that are used in Ningaloo Blooming. Take your time and don't rush!

(Section 4.1) Take the 52 Red (Fab2) and Cream (Fab3) units (26 x 2) you have just completed (Section 3.5) as well as 52 cross cut Gold (fab4) and Blue (Fab1) units (Section 1.4) along with your 13, 2½"x 2½" Green (Fab 5). (For those of you who had several possible fabric choices for your Fab5 you can now decide which fabric best brings out the beauty of this block.)
Layout the above pieces as indicated by the diagram and sew together in rows watching for the pressing lines or arrows. You need to complete 13 of these blocks Make 2 for quilt night..
(Section 4.2) Take 16 Blue (Fab1) and Red (Fab2) half square triangle units (Section 1.1), as well as 8 2½"x 2½" Blue (Fab1) squares and 16 Triple Triangle units (Section 3.1) half from each differently slanting pile.
Make up 8 rows as shown in diagram. Make 2 for quilt night.
(Section 4.3) Take 16 Blue (Fab1) and Cream (Fab3) cross cut units (Section 1.3) and 8 2½"x 2½" Red (Fab2) squares.
Make up 8 rows as shown in diagram. Make 2 for quilt night.
(Section 4.4) Use the 16 units completed in Section 3.2 as well as 8 Blue (Fab1) and Cream (Fab3) cross cut units (Section 1.3)
Layout as shown in the diagram and complete 8 of these units. Make 2 for quilt night.
(Section 4.5) Use the above units as well as 8, 4½"x 10½" Blue (Fab1) rectangles.
A Word of Warning When adding your 4½"x 10½" rectangle please don't be tempted to stretch your row to make it fit. Measure your completed first row and if it measures 10¼" for example then trim back the rectangle to 10¼" before joining. This way you won't have a fluted edge on this block. If by some chance your 10½" rectangle isn't long enough email me and I'll tell you how to fix it. This block IS NOT square - don't worry! You need to complete 8 of these blocks. Make 2 for quilt night.

	Congratulations - you've made it to the final stage of Ningaloo Blooming. I hope you've all enjoyed the journey. The name of this quilt came about because of the very rich colours that I used in my sample which reminded me of the colours of the reef. Every year between 7 and 10 days after the full moon in March and April, the 260km of coral reef begins its annual spawning cycle. Dense clouds of brilliantly coloured coral spawn are released and these millions of spawning coral polyps were the inspiration in the naming my quilt.

(Section 5.1) Take the 16 units that you completed in Section 2.2, and 16 Blue (Fab1) and Cream (Fab3) cross cut units completed in Section 1.3 along with 4 x 2½"x 2½" Red (Fab2) squares.
Layout the above pieces as indicated by the diagram on the right and sew together in rows watching for the pressing lines or arrows. You need to complete 4 of these blocks Make 2 for quilt night.. In putting together this block you will need to employ the Clip & Flip pressing method where indicated by the zig zag arrows. The following diagram illustrates this method - take care not to go to close to your stitching line.
This is a photograph of my block prior to it being incorporated into the quilt.
(Section 5.2) Take the remaining 24 triple triangle units that you completed in Section 3.1 along with 12 x 2½" x 2½" Cream (Fab3) squares and 24 x 2½" x 2½" Blue (Fab1) squares.
Make up 12 rows as shown in diagram. Make 4 for quilt night.
My completed units.
(Section 5.3) The following diagram indicates the block layout which shows non existent sashings purely so that you can see where one block starts and another ends - Please also note that you need to have your "flower" blocks with their long points heading northwards. You will need to join the units you've just completed in Section 5.2 to your flower blocks before you begin joining your rows using the 4 x 2½" x 2½" Blue (Fab1) in the four You've all got this far so beautifully that I'm sure I don't need to hold your hands as you come down the final straight. As you put your rows together press each flower block "proud" - in other words iron your seams behind the flower block each time - this way your rows should lock together in the majority of instances. I can't guarantee this will happen in every instance because of block rotation and where it doesn't, just use the clip and flip pressing method.